Still Life with the Desert Sky

Waterfall in Zion

We've been home in Bend for a few weeks now but I just recently uploaded a lot of pictures from the rest of our time on the road!

After our Kolob bonanza, bad weather forced us to find some fun things other than climbing in the UT desert. Fortunately this was not hard. A steady rain sang us to sleep and didn't quiet down all night. So much rain in a landscape usually arid seemed disorienting and exotic at once. We stayed in Zion and fully embraced our tourist selves, riding on the Zion Canyon shuttle along side the family vacationers and foreign language speakers. We stared out the window, ogling at the big walls and waterfalls. We even stopped at the visitor center to watch the orientation film. We took some short walks in the rain and learned a lot about the park. The next day we awoke to more storms so we decided to leave the area in pursuit of dry rocks. In no hurry, we drove the scenic route from Zion to Moab by way of Bryce Canyon National Park, the Grand Staircase Escalante and Capitol Reef National Park. The storm cells continued to move through the area keeping the desert cold and wet for another few days.

Leaving Zion and heading east on Mt. Carmel Highway

Power: Past + Present

 

Still lovin' and laughin'

Snowy Bryce

A bazillion hoodoos in the vastness of Bryce Canyon

We arrived in Moab welcomed by our friends Dan and Megan. We've mentioned these two in past and truly enjoy their company, conversations and endless psych to climb. Still, the weather was not cooperating. A light snow at Indian Creek allowed us to have some other adventures. We brought our mountain bikes to ride a few of the area's many miles of trails. Biking in Moab proved to be quite humbling. More on that another time perhaps. 

Drew cruising up some slickrock!

What did they drink before Red Bull? Whiskey probably.

Along the trail, we came upon the remains of an old stage coach post. People stopped there to re-energize, probably eat some food and have a drink. The shards of glass and rusty metal objects gave us clues to what might have gone on in the little tavern. There must have been some wild nights and memories made out in the middle of nowhere. Or maybe just a lot of sittin' around.

Old Stage Post

Cactus in Bloom

Flowers growing from between the cracks in the rock

Megan's amazing stemming skills

One morning the sun timidly poked its rays out from behind a few clouds. So we decided to boulder in an area called Big Bend just outside town. Fun climbing held our attention until yet another storm began to rumble. Crashes of thunder started off in the distance but came closer and closer. We tried to squeeze in as many problems as possible until huge rain drops began to fall.

And her vice grip on a slope arete!

Another great spot

Great climbing partner gives a good spot

The storm building behind one last problem

 

Drew firing the hand gun

Cristina with the .22

Slacktastic!

Luckily, there was no shortage of rainy day activity. The rain let up enough to still be outside. Dan, a seasoned and successful hunter, generously let us tag along for some target practice. Between gusts of wind we shot off a few rounds. The adrenaline from shooting feels like it comes from some primal origin. It's hard to relay my emotional response to having such a powerful tool in your hands. Perhaps because it was a new experience for me. Drew grew up shooting and had aim as good as any of the old outlaws. Back at the ranch we played on the slack line and the trampoline. I don't think I've been on a tramp since high school. Tragically, I've been missing out on a lot of laughter. I had to exit the tramp because I lost control laughing so hard when Drew and Dan simultaneously sent me soaring so high I felt weightless for several seconds.

Eventually the sun came out and dried up all the rain. And the antsy pantsy climbers could climb the rocks again. Let the crack climbing antics begin...

Indian Creek

The Creek and Six Shooters

Kolobbered

Huecos Rancheros, Kolob Canyon, Utah

As climbing days come and go here in the depths of the desert, the Joshua trees, Jack rabbits and towering walls can attest to my most commonly said phrase, "That may have been the best climbing day I've ever  had."
 
While its a rather redundant phrase in my life's story, I believe I may have truly experienced the best sport climbing day that I can recall.

Sitting on a limestone boulder at the base of the Wailing Wall in Saint George, Utah, I struck up a conversation with a couple from the United Kingdom.

UK Andy: So where you skinny blokes off to next?

Me: Well from Saint George we're heading through Zion then onto Moab.

UK Andy: You stopping in Zion?

Me: Yeah that's the plan, then meet up with some friends in Moab. 

UK Andy: You ever heard of Kolob Canyon?

Me: (First thought: must be some crazy British disco-tech dance move or chewing tobacco or something... In fact I barely understood what he said with his accent. In actuality, Kolob is the planet that all Mormon's are going to travel to after the horrible rapture of the Earth...seriously... But this British guy wouldn't ask me about Mormons, right?) "No. I haven't heard of it" I said, eyebrows raised.

 
His eyes pierced mine. His butt scooted over, chalkbag scraping along the limestone, seemingly intent on capturing my full attention. He leaned over, put his hand on his knee - staring into me - and said in one breath, "Its the best steep climbing I've ever done in America, and I've done almost everything in America."

I laughed.

He didn't.

He looked over at his wife, Cheggs, and she nodded her head in a slow, sincere manner.

He looked back at me.

Me: (taking things seriously now) Um, ok... wow.
UK Andy: You must go.

Then he Whispered: "Kolob. Kolob. Kolob...."

His low growl of a whisper completely put me in a trance. Even when Sasha Digiulian sauntered by, I didn't leave his stare.

Me: Hey...uh... Cristina? We're going to Kolob.
Cristina: Ok.
Cristina: Wait what? Where's that?

UK Andy relaxed his gaze, and went into some sort of "beta" mode and sprayed us down on the drive, approach and routes.

For the rest of the day at the crag, every time we'd see him and catch his attention, he'd mutter "Kolob. Kolob. Kooooolob..."

The next day we met up with two of our friends who were also climbing in the area, Allison Lay and Drew Smith. Cristina and I and our two companions said our goodbyes to Saint George and and headed toward UK Andy's sacred Mormon planet, which existed within Zion National Park. After a stunning 45 minute approach through an ever narrowing canyon lined with thousand foot walls, my heart stopped and my mouth went dry. Before me stood tiger striped sandstone standing at 35 degrees past vertical in a narrow portion of the canyon with glowing huecos and spaced bolts. Instant excitement and the National Anthem of the United Kingdom filled my head.

Cristina (left) on Hueco Rancheros 12c, and our new friend Brendan on Namaste 12a.
Drew Smith Photo

 

Thanks UK Andy, wherever you are.

The rest of the day we climbed routes way too long for our 70m ropes. Enormous jugs, interesting movement and lactic acid were copious.

Even though the area only has three bolted routes, each one is extremely high quality for the grade.  We warmed up on a hard 5.10, then set our eyes on Namaste 5.12a and Huecos Rancheros 5.12c.

Warming up, enjoying the steeps. Drew Smith Photo

Hanging the draws on the steepest line, Namaste, I felt as though I was racked up for a trad pitch with the 17 draws weighing me down.  I never have climbed a route so uniform and perfect.  Some would say it's a jug ladder.  I'd say it's the overhanging stairway to heaven.  40 meters above the starting holds Cristina lowered me off the anchors, and I slowly crept back to earth, ending up about 50 feet back from the wall - smiling.

Red River Gorge ain't got nothin' on this place.

Cristina seamlessly flashing Namaste 12a, Drew Smith Photo

Cristina and Drew then proceeded to flash the line, both in good style.

Cristina's no hands rest, Namaste. Drew Smith Photo

Drew Smith on Namaste.

Next up was Huecos Rancheros.  45 meters of sustained jug hauling in the 5.11 range ending with a stout V4 boulder problem.  Onsighting this route, regardless of the grade, was surely one of the best moments of climbing I've experienced.  The route was so long, in fact, that I had to down climb a tree at it's base just to gain the ground.

Cristina down-climbing the tree at the base of Huecos Rancheros just so she could reach
the ground!  an 80 meter rope would be perfect for this area, as we
were about 30' short with our 70.

The day ended with big hugs and a sunset hike back to our vehicles.

In reality, there is no single "best" day, just lots of incredible days filled with amazing experiences. Every day can be a perfect one if you try your hardest, learn something from the experience, and leave the special place you visited in better shape than when you arrived.

Our next few days are going to be impossibly hard... after all... how do you follow up a day like this?

Try, try again! 

P.S. This is a VERY special and VERY sensitive climbing area.  It's remote, unmanaged, and could easily be destroyed by even the most caring of climbers and hikers.  The cliffs are home to Canyon Wrens and Peregrines, and long horn sheep and cougars rely on clean water sources. There are no fixed draws, no maintained trail, and no maintained bathroom.  With all waste here, if you pack it in, pack it out.  This means poop too!  If this post has inspired you to visit this area, then leave it better than you found it so others can have as stellar a time here as we did.  If you have any doubt about the difference between backcountry right and wrong, click here. Do it right! 

On the Rocks

Frogland!

Rock climbing varies in as many ways as the drink options at your favorite bar. Between the styles of climbing, different rock types and trad, sport and bouldering, the choices amount to a large selection. Over the past few weeks, our thirst to climb has been quenched by nearly all of the above. In a quick recall, Red Rocks, NV served up sandstone sport climbing and multi-pitch trad. We then headed over to Bishop, CA for long welded tuff sport lines. While there, we also bouldered for a day. Next up was a splitter granite finger crack in the Sierras. And most recently sampling the UT limestone.

A glass of fine wine. Long and complex. Multi-pitch trad climbing might be an acquired taste, similar to a dry wine. It requires greater time and monetary investments. And often once you leave the ground, you're committed to the route, just like opening that bottle of wine, see it through to the end. Drew and I took advantage of Red Rocks variety of fine multi-pitch lines. One of the most enjoyable days I had was on Frogland (5.8, 6 pitches). Drew and I swapped leads and it worked out perfectly that we each got pitches that suited our own tastes.

Protecting a traverse, Drew was behind the camera on this route so guess who was in front...

psyched on top of P1

To the chockstone - such a wild feature!

Air guitar on top of Frogland! Woot woot!

Drew lovin Next Century

Some other notable routes include Next Century (5.10d R) and Slot Machine (5.10b R) which we linked to Dark Shadows (5.8). Drew somehow enjoys thin, insecure moves runout over rattly gear. While I did not enjoy the R-rated parts of these routes, great climbing, vistas and becoming more efficient transitioning at belays etc. made for some superb days. The aesthetic Yin and Yang (11a) was a whole other flavor, well protected but challenging. Even within the category of trad climbing, much variety exists and I find I prefer some styles over others. We ended our time in the canyons of Red Rocks with a morning of cragging at Willow Springs, where I got to lead my hardest trad climb to date - Left Out (10d). Its a long slightly overhanging line with everything from finger locks to hand jams to jugs. Five stars and worth a morning at the easily accessible, though over crowded area.

Grimacing on Next Century

Gawking on Slot Machine

Dark Shadows belay ledge

Short but punchy, the 45' Yin & Yang, 5.11

Jumping for Joy in Owens

We left Red Rocks, exhausted by the buzz of the big city in such close proximity and headed West to Bishop. Some of my favorite climbing in the West can be found in the deep cleft in the High Desert carved by the Owen's River. If you're looking for something smooth flowing and full of flavor, that's how the climbs in the Gorge feel; like a good whiskey, served neat, and in the company of good folks. The fact that its just miles below a world renowned bouldering destination provides crowd control. Many people visit Bishop, pull on plenty of rock but pass up the Gorge completely. Surely, the 1,500 ft. drop in elevation that you have to slog back up at the end of the day makes it somewhat less appealing but the climbing down there... is ok. While I could gush about how some of my best days of the trip were spent in the gorge, you should just tell your friends that the climbing... is ok. *wink*

Enjoying the view of the Owen's River Valley

Vanessa crushing in the Happies

The Bend Climbing Team journeyed down to Bishop for their Spring Break. This crew of under age kids CRUSHED! When we went to the Happy Boulders one day with them we witnessed some amazing talent flashing problems and sending other people's projects, totally crashing the party with style.  Props to Mike Rougeux, coach of the millennium,  for organizing such a great trip for the young guns of Bend. Bouldering is not my favorite type of climbing. Nor are shots my favorite way to imbibe alcohol. Bouldering condenses hard climbing into a short problem, like a shooter, quick and packs a punch.

S'mores

Bend Endurance Academy Climbing Team

Crux of Bony Fingers

Word on the Bishop streets talked up the amazing nearby granite so much that we had to try it for ourselves. On our way out of town we stopped by the Whitney Portal and got on Bony Fingers (direct start 11b R). Not only did this route have incredible climbing, but its location surpassed all others for beauty and tranquility. The Whitney Portal Road winds through the foothills into an alpine basin with Mount Whitney (at 14,505 ft its the tallest peak in the lower 48) towering above. Since it is still early in the season, the road was barely passable and the campground deserted, making it feel pretty remote compared to other busy climbing areas we had been. Hiking up to the base of the climb, I couldn't stop gulping breaths (the elevation may have had something to do with it too) of the delicious fragrant air, cool and so potently pine scented. I thought to myself, "it smells like floor cleaner." Then inverted my perceptions to realize, "No, pine scented cleaner smells like this. This is real." Evidence of a disheartening alienation from the natural world aside, I'd put this corner of the West in the Vinter's reserve with a hefty price tag for its value. This climb stimulated all of the senses just as a true wine connoisseur experiences a variety through smell, taste, and texture. An exquisite reality.

Convenience is paramount

Atop Bony Fingers, Thanks to Peter Croft for sending us!

Modern day Muir without the beard skills.

Drew's three favorite things: Sierra granite, the RaSafari and Me!

After spending a night tucked in the Alabama Hills with Eastern Sierra watching over us, we headed through Death Valley across the lowest point in the continental U.S. (200 ft below sea level). Onward to St. George, UT for some limestone to further feed our addiction. Maybe limestone will be the brewski we've been missing.

The comparison of climbing to a night at the local watering hole can go on. You've got bar tenders who make 'em stiff, and you've got routes with stiff grades, mixed drinks - mixed routes. You got a great buzz going but then a storm rolls in and kills it. You got the usual and then once in a while you change things up. It feels like in the past few weeks, we've been trying it all. Truth be told, I haven't actually had a drink in a quite some time. But I'm drunk on the finest rock in the Southwest. The best part is there's no hangover in sight.

Snug under the Sierras and the starry sky.